Oribu Winter Menu Review

Proud owner Louis Arida doesn’t ever do things by halves. Oribu is a luxuriant expression of ultra premium ingredients innovatively imagined and executed by Chef’s Jay Lee (ex Aria) a master of Japanese culinary craftmanship, Jaybert Teves (ex SOKYO) a master of sashimi, and Bryan Paul Nery a master of taco and tempura. Tradition and technique is respected, however those conventional boundaries are redefined with every iteration of its seasonal menu. Whilst the new winter menu components have you salivating at a first glance, its the balance, nuance and clarity of flavours that ultimately make this menu the best I have tasted to date at Parramatta’s best restaurant in my opinion.

The odyssey starts with an elaborately and progressively presented mini omakase, which turns out generously to be anything but that. Its a mosaic of a sashimi set accompanied by Royal Myagi oysters with Oscietra black caviar, a very nice start in any context. This is followed by a duo; a spoon of memorable 10A Grade Tasmanian sea urchin, and again, this time with yuzu panna cotta with Oscietra black caviar, toro tartare, shallots, and wasabi oil smoked under a klosh. A salmon and caviar tartare is visually showcased with a carrot ginger emulsion, that works even more cohesively on the palate. The snapper crudo also revisits the carrot ginger theme, but is contrasted with fennel pollen, fermented lemon, Aleppo pepper, lightly smoked salt, and garnished with compressed kiwi fruit. It’s a stunning dish that works on every level.

However, the flawless scallop au Verjus next with pickled muscat, green chilli salsa, tarragon oil, and smoke infused cream is my choice for dish of the year to date. It epitomises everything about Oribu that I touched upon in my introduction, and exhausts my superlatives for a plate of food. The vibrant and zesty Salmon Leche de tigre follows in its wake, a lovely dish in its own right, – and on any other meal would have significantly wowed, however the previous dish was simply transcendental. Likewise, the hiramasa no hana with ginger, jalapeño, micro herbs and sudachi dressing is a very thoughtfully constructed dish. Just the right time methinks for the roasted pear and charred unagi taco, and the Fuji apple fish taco – both a playful and meaningful fusion of two cuisines.

Does it get much better than pan roasted foie gras with sour orange caramel as a counterpoint with chives, and mineral salt on toasted shokupan? It’s my guilty pleasure on a plate, and my resting heart rate rises in joyous celebration. The abalone “escargot” with smoked butter and shiso leaf is just what the doctor ordered, as are the A5 Hida wagyu and eel nabe soups. The clarity of flavours in both are matched with a measured intensity that enriches the soul – and just perfect for winter! The enticing 400g lobster tail arrives, with a healthy lashing of yuzu garlic béarnaise and potato mash. Sublime A5 Hida wagyu lavishly concludes the savoury element of this sumptuous feast, other than particularly well-executed crispy eggplant and noodles as sides that work nicely.

A delightful contrasting dessert trio of Matcha Dorayaki, Lychee yuzi panacotta and Nashi no Kaori bring an exceptional experience to the conclusion that this winter menu is another progressive step in Oribu’s impressive evolution. One senses this team have fully bought into its culinary ambition, and that is apart from a serious beverage and cigar program. I am looking forward to trying the Heritage Bar Menu which is located directly beneath Oribu, and also the cigar lounge, both of which add a rich diversity to the experience being offered in this magnificent heritage building on Church Street.

By Dane Richards