Fine Dining Review: Black Hide by Gambaro at the Treasury

Australians have always enjoyed a good steak. The European settlers arrived in 1788 with just a few cows. This number rapidly increased and today there are as many cows in Australia as there are humans. Australian beef is amongst the best in the world and is exported worldwide.

So, it is not unexpected that we have some great steak restaurants – and Black Hide by Gambaro at the Treasury in Brisbane is amongst the very best. Black Hide is part of the Gambaro Group. The Gambaro family name has been synonymous with fine dining and sensational seafood for over 60 years, and their seafood restaurant is the oldest established restaurant in Brisbane.

Black Hide at the Treasury has won Queensland’s best steak restaurant for three years running and is renowned for its world-class Australian Wagyu and Angus steak cuts, wonderful service and premium wine selection.

You know you are in a serious steakhouse as soon as you walk in from the main casino, past the extensive glass fridge showcasing a huge selection of aged beef, past the display of special steak knives owned by the regulars and into the opulent leather and grey dining room overlooking the Brisbane River.

Whilst this is a carnivore’s heaven, Executive Chef Thomas Mumford (ex-Story Bridge Hotel and Gambaro’s) has launched a new menu bursting with fresh seasonal ingredients, bold flavours and a focus on local and sustainable produce. Start with Beluga Caviar with crème fraîche, chives and toast or freshly shucked oysters. Or try the Hiramasa yellowtail kingfish with fermented chilli, sesame and crème fraîche, or a new dish of plump, juicy scallops with orange and saffron butter, topped with toasted pistachios – a delightful aromatic citrus flavour with crunch from the pistachios – simply divine. The smoked heirloom carrots are crisp and fresh with a distinct smoky flavour complemented by a tahini and pomegranate sauce. Very more-ish.

For mains, there is, of course, a wide range of steaks from Stanbroke Estate, including Angus with a marble score of 3, Wagyu with a marble score of 9 and some in-house dry-aged rib eye, all served with decadent wagyu fat potatoes and a selection of condiments. It would not be Gambaro’s without some excellent fish, crab, bugs and lobster options. The spanner crab and sweetcorn tortellini are large and generous, served with a delicious shellfish bisque and tomato salsa. Pair with spiced eggplant, hand-cut chips and an excellent heirloom tomato salad with fennel, labne and oregano. And for a little extra umami flavour, bone marrow with parsley, eschalot, capers and toasted sourdough.

There are some decadent house-made desserts including a Wagyu fat frangipane tart with Pedro Ximenez ice cream. Or perhaps a bittersweet affogato.

The service is friendly, knowledgeable, efficient and attentive without being intrusive. There is a range of innovative new cocktails as well as a comprehensive wine list with many by the glass. And if you are a Star Club member of the Casino, you can enjoy discounts and offers.

Black Hide by Gambaro at the Treasury does not disappoint – well worth a detour.

By Jeremy Ryland