Fine Dining Review: Oribu

The inside menu cover says, “Three masters, one tree”, which poetically sums up its stylish owner Louis Arida’s vision of Oribu when he headhunted three accomplished Head Chefs with very specific skill sets for a culinary project that was created with both purpose and ambition. With Chef’s Jay Lee (ex Aria) a master of Japanese culinary craftmanship, Jaybert Teves (ex SOKYO) a master of sashimi, and Bryan Paul Nery a master of taco and tempura, it quickly became the best restaurant in Parramatta in my opinion. What further triumphs are possible, would not surprise me in the slightest, especially when you are using the most premium ingredients accessible, and your vision is cast firmly towards the invisible horizon.

My Japanese style bacchanalian feast commences with nabe soup, a traditional hotpot dish reimagined more stylishly, with radish, shiitake and enoki mushrooms, lotus root, wakame, shallot, bamboo shoots, and nagoya unagi which elevates the depth of flavour to another level. Speaking of which, premium 10a grade sea urchin, served in its shell as a parfait, with yuzu pannacotta, toro tartare, shallots, wasabi oil, Oscietra black caviar all infused with smoke is the definition of decadence under a glass cloche. The thoughtful temperature contrast, and wasabi cutting across the sweetness is a nice touch that does not go unnoticed. Similarly, and more for the purists, ankimo with monkfish foie gras, ponzu jelly, leek, apple, celery, and artisan shokupan delivers its unique flavour profile in spades.

If you choose this pathway, naturally expect that these ingredients come with a price tag to showcase, however so does the experience delivery. A very pretty angus beef tataki with stunning secondary textures follows with garlic flakes, salted egg yolk, garlic ponzu, horseradish cream, and chives. It is well-balanced with the requisite level of acidity on point. Likewise, the zesty salmon gravlax with cara cara orange, grapefruit, buttermilk garlic yuzu dressing, soy, grapeseed leek oil, ponzu jelly, yukari salt, and micro herb is just as astutely constructed. However, we enter next level wow territory with the mitsumori sakana, a stunning symphony of cured fish, persimmon, radish, micro herbs, yuzu cream, pistachio, and umeboshi. I am left without words, and its a hard act to follow for vibrant ceviche of tuna, kingfish, salmon, beetroot, miso dressing, tobiko, eschallot, chives, cucumber, and yuzu kiwi granita. Its very good, but it followed the signature aria, and that divine harmony is still playing in my head.

Its a great time for an interlude to get a little more playful with the spanner crab hand rolled maki and fuji apple salsa fish taco before the super premium savoury dishes are unleashed. Both are a little tricky to eat, but nonetheless are entirely delicious, and priced more towards the snacky and accessible end of what Oribu offers. Okay, get the defribilator on standby for the multi layered artisan shokupan with at least 150 grams of perfectly seared gachou foie gras (goose) with rich truffle paste, black Oscietra caviar (why not), and unctuous onion jam. It is without doubt the most decadent and lush dish I have eaten for a very long time. If my culinary life ends here, I am totally reconciled with this type of heavenly transcendence, so please take me Lord whilst I am a man entirely beholden by grace. And so my sins are entirely banished, let’s indulge the spectacular Hida A5 Wagyu beef sirloin with caviar, beautifully presented on a bespoke board. The beautiful mesclun and persimmon salad, with kiwi fruit, fig purée, orange segments, and fermented fruit vinaigrette was a saviour in cutting across that duo of culinary decadence.

It is hard in words to do this unapologetic culinary largesse proper justice, however its very important to acknowledge that Oribu delivers in terms of both style and substance. One without the other would be pointless. Also, its worth pointing out you can effectively choose your experience and associated price points, as the diversity in what they offer is provided without any upsell pressure. With the new spring fast approaching, and given their commitment to seasonality, it is sure to provide exciting points of difference between the menus. The only commonality is the use of the premium ingredients placed in the very best of hands. My experience is best defined in their own words, “A winter menu born beneath the olive branches – infused with time, memory, and the quiet scent of the season.”

Bravo, or ブラボー in Japanese.

By Dane Richards